Move your guests beyond the "red-wine-only" syndrome

Planning a multi-course meal with wine

I grew up in a house with three brothers. So the notion of having different "courses" of dinner was preposterous. We brothers were all so ravenous when supper came it was all my mother could so to throw it all on a plate and stand aside before she became supper too. The only thing that qualified as another course was dessert, and it disappeared with similar dispatch. So much for civilization. No wonder my mom died young.

When I set up a home of my own I was determined to be different. No pigs at the trough for me; instead I saw long leisurely meals with a succession of dishes, each one distinct and designed with what went ahead and what went behind in mind. Eventually it came true. Now when people come for dinner, they expect a full evening of entertainment, all structured around a series if delightful dishes designed to build like a crescendo. Now Barb and I host people for dinner parties in which the first course may be served at 7 and the last at midnight. And the core around which we often plan the meal is the succession of wines we serve.

It all starts with something light and refreshing. We start with lighter foods such as antipasti or cheeses. These call for a lighter, crisper beverage. A light bubbly like Prosecco, the wonderful effervescent white from Italy, makes a great start to the evening. Lower in alcohol, fun and food friendly, Prosecco gets everyone's spirits up without getting anyone too intoxicated. This course we often serve away from the table--in the living room or outside on the deck if the weather is good. A dry rose can fill the bill to, especially with a prawn dip.

Second course is at the table. We often serve a pasta course, ravioli or a lighter pasta with marinata sauce, or sometimes a soup Again lighter wines will suit. Serve a "grigio" style Pinot Gris (no oak, higher acid) or, if the "red only" chauvinists are visiting, a lighter, Burgundian Pinot Noir will suffice. Remember to check the alcohol level. Thirteen or lower is best.

Now comes the main course. Here match the colour of the wine to the colour of the meat. Fowl or pork call for whites. Beef or game call for big reds. Here you can pull out the big guns. Higher-alcohol, oaked Chardonnays are great with turkey or duck. Go for the barrel-aged Cabernets and Syrahs with the roast. Stay away from jammy sweet Aussie reds and favour Old World-style Bordeaux and Barolos as that'll complement the meat flavours better.

Our habit is to serve a salad course next. Dietitians say the greens should go down after the mains for better digestion. Wine pairing can be flexible. often guests are still sipping their Chard or Cab. You can also offer a reprise of that crisp Pinot Grigio you had with the primi.

Now we're not sweet wine drinkers but with a lighter, palate-cleansing dessert, such as ice milk with lemon zest and pistaccios sprinkled over top, a late harvest dessert wine, medium-sweet, is a great palate-cleanser. Or try something adventurous such as a spice cake or Tira Misu and a creamy oaked Chardonnay. All dessert wines do not have to be sweet.

Take chances. Remember there is only one rule to wine and food pairing: there are no rules! The result will most certainly be a symphony of tastes that rings in your guests' memory long after the evening is over.

Cheers!

Keith

Keith Watt is owner and winemaker at Morning Bay Vineyard on Pender Island, BC.